Monday, May 29, 2023

They built it, I went (#17 Iowa)

Monday we headed out to the airport for the easy flight down to Dubuque.  The staff at Signature was amazing and drove our junk to the plane.  We did some quick sorting of clothe as we were down to 2 days and the weather had changed.  When we started, it was supposed to be cold but Iowa was going to be warm, so we resorted and then loaded up.  This allowed us to leave most of the clothe in the plane and just take what we needed. 



It was a short flight, 44 minutes but it was hazy and bumpy.  It does go by quickly though.  We flew  Southeast until we could see the Mississippi and then we picked up the airport at around 12 miles out.  We were cleared for the visual to 18 with the winds 220@8.  18 was more into the wind but we were lined up on 13 which took us right to the FBO.  



I asked to 13 and was given the straight in.  Made a nice touchdown even though the runway had a good downhill slope.  We rolled to a crawl at the FBO exit and were soon in our space.  The FBO was friendly and had our car but it’s a weird Avis.  Most places they drop the car with the paperwork.  Here they did it all by hand.  The car was fine but the Bluetooth did not work.  



After messing with it a bit, we gave up and headed West.  In 1988, Universal put a baseball diamond in a cornfield in Iowa.  James Earl Jones said it all, “They'll come to Iowa for reasons they can't even fathom…Ohhhhhhhh, people will come, Ray. People will most definitely come.”



If you haven’t figured it out, we were at the Field of Dreams movie site.  They built it, we came.  I am not a sports or baseball person but I liked the movie.  I sat in the famous bleachers and watched families play some ball.  Then it was my turn at bat.  I popped one out to right field and then rounded the bases.  


CC gave it a go as well though even though she swore that she had failed softball in 9th grade.   She got a nice bunt and also somehow turned it into a home run.  After playing a bit more and helping other visitors with pictures, we grabbed ice cream sandwiches at the snack bar.  Oh and the car, on the way out, I had an idea, I went into the menus and did full reset on all the systems.  It still did not work but after we rebooted the car, it came to life and we had on screen navigation.



We headed into town and stopped at the Spanish Mine park.  We took a short overlook trail that showed off the geology nicely and then went to the Julien Dubuque Monument built in 1897.  It looks a lot like a rook but the monument has a nice river view and you can see Dubuque and Illinois,



As we were enjoying the view a bald eagle flew by not more than 30 feet from us.  The eagle then began to thermal up.  We were ready for a break so we headed downtown to the Hotel Julien Dubuque.  Typically we stay at Marriott properties but the choices around Dubuque were poor so we decided to try some history.  


The Hotel Julien Dubuque was first built in 1839. At the time it was called the Waples house. It has been rebuilt since then and now thoroughly renovated to make it a modern classic hotel.  Notable guests include Abraham Lincoln, Mark Twain, and Al Capone. Or so they say, we did not see any of them in the lobby.



We came for the Field of Dreams but Dubuque had many sights to see.  We took a stroll on the Mississippi River walk which had some unique sculptures.  The old shot tower stood at the end.  The tower was originally used to produce lead shot. Lead was melted at the top and passed through a sieve. The drops fell into a pool of water, cooling on the way down creating the spheres.  Ironically it was converted to a fire spotting tower and then it caught fire, not when it was melting lead.  




We also started to find some of the 50 murals that have been painted in the downtown area.  One striking aspect of the city was how empty it felt.  Monday is the night when a lot of restaurants close but we wandered about on a Monday afternoon and it was almost a ghost town, few people and few cars.  With limited choices and not wanting to have fast food, we decided on Greek for a second night.  The gyro was quite good and we had some chili cheese fries which were ok but a bit soggy.




After dinner we took in one more sight.  The Fenelon Place Elevator Company which they claim is the world's shortest and steepest railroad, 297 feet.  Railroad is a stretch, it is a funicular which the rich people installed in the 1800s to improve their commute.  They lived on the bluff above town but had to descend to oppress the workers, sorry I meant manage industry.  



Luckily the train has been upgraded to mostly modern safety standards. It is run from the top so when you are at the bottom, you get in the waiting car and pull a cord that rings a bell.  The operator responds with a bell and then it starts up the hill.  You pay your fare at the top.  It is old fashioned in that it’s a cash only fare. We went the full $4 each for the round trip.  



It has nice views of the city, river and Illinois. It also smells like fresh baked bread.  This was a bit perplexing but the operator told us there was a commercial bakery down the hill and the wind was blowing the right direction. 



We had been pretty lucky with the weather so far and it looked like our return flights would be mostly good weather until we crossed into Florida.  I was watching the pattern to understand it but there was not much I could do about it yet.  We went to bed and woke up to our last day sightseeing.



I say woke up, slept in would be more accurate, we were on vacation.   Our first stop was the Dubuque Arboretum.  It is the largest volunteer run arboretum in the country according to them.  I am not a huge plant person and can only say I have a brown thumb.  The volunteers definitely have green thumbs.



We started at the Japanese garden which had a large koi pond.  We wandered a bit to the main gardens enjoying the plants and flowers and then stopped by the visitor center and bought some fish food.



We headed back to the Koi and all of a sudden we were very popular.  You would think the fish would freeze over the winter but apparently they are pretty hardy, and they can survive if the pond can be kept at 39 degrees or more.  Not sure what they do in Dubuque. 



We wandered a bit more enjoying the cool and sunny morning and then headed back to the visitor center to sample the ice cream.


After the arboretum, we went to Eagle Point Park.  It overlooks the Mississippi and lock and dam 11.  The Army Core of Engineers runs these on the river.  The dams allow them to manage the water flow for both flooding and to maintain water levels to provide navigable channels for shipping.



We were lucky and got to see a boat transit the locks.  They opened  the up river gate and let them in.  The gates closed, the water level fell and then they were let out the down river gate.  We walked about along the river enjoying the view which allows you to stand in Iowa and see Illinois and Wisconsin.  The park is known for Bald Eagle viewing but here we were disappointed.  We had many Turkey vultures but no eagles.



After the park we headed down the hill to the foot of the dam. The core has a nice observation deck that gives you a closer view.  We watched a flock of Pelicans, yes pelicans, I thought they were salt water birds but apparently the American White Pelican is a fresh water bird.



Our next stop was the grocery store to grab some snacks and buy some cheese curds.  Everyone had been pushing the curds so we decided to give them a try.  The curds are underage cheddar cheese.  Yes, they make the cheese, forget to age it and then sell it at a premium.  We had them as a side with our lunch.  They are OK but I don’t get the hype. 



After our lunch break we went for a drive.  We had previously done Illinois when we landed there to visit Missouri, so technically we had not sightseen there .  We crossed the Mississippi and drove to the other side of Lock and Dam 11 which was actually back in Wisconsin.  It was a nice view and we could get much closer to the dam and stand on the levy.



Then it was off to Illinois.  We drove the back roads and saw lots of rolling hills and farms.  We also saw a bunch of happy cows munching away.  Ironically the Wisconsin cows were brown and white while the Illinois ones were the classic Black and White cows in all the Wisconsin dairy ads.  




We were on our way to Galena, Illinois. Galena was once the home of President Grant. It also boasts a downtown of historical buildings which now house a bunch of junk shops for tourists.  On the plus side they also sell ice cream and I somehow needed to try some.  After a nice stroll we headed back to Dubuque.


Our final sightseeing was to look at some more of the Dubuque murals. Since 2016 there have been over 50 added to the downtown area. We topped the night off with some local BBQ and split a meat sampler, ribs, pork two ways and brisket.  It may be a controversial statement as BBQ is portrayed as a Southern thing but they hold their own up here in Iowa. 



Weather was looking pretty good with the exception of home which was calling for thunderstorms. Again, not much to do about it the night before except plan some alternates and get a good night's rest.


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